Way of the normal route

Overall data of the Via delle Normali:

• 6/7 days of crossing
• 10 peaks of which 5 are 3000 meters
• 8 refuges and 1 bivouac for overnight stays
• max climbing difficulty III+
• 5500 m overall ascent level difference in the crossing
• 45 km overall length of the crossing (walking plus climbing)
• 15 km climbing expanses only on the vie normali (normal routes)
• 60 hours of mountain experience

There are two useful accesses for crossing the Brenta Group from south to north along the Via delle Normali and for covering all the stages: the XII Apostoli Refuge and the Agostini Refuge.

If departure is from the XII Apostoli Refuge, after the first night stay following the approach, stage no. 1 travel time increases by 2.30 h with an increment of 350 meters in ascent and 430 meters in descent. On the other hand, this choice allows you to stay each night in a different refuge and is easier returning from Madonna di Campiglio, the arrival point of the Via delle Normali. The same access is recommended for those who want to start the route from Cima Tosa (stage no. 2). Access with ski lifts: from Pinzolo, free parking at the Pinzolo-Prà Rodont lift departure point; take the cable car and chairlift up to Doss del Sabion, from here first follow trail sign no. 357 and then the 307 (total travel time: 3 hours). Check the season and opening hours of the lifts on www.campigliodolomiti.it. Access without ski lifts: from S. Antonio di Mavignola, take the crossroads for Val Brenta to the Prà de la Casa holiday home and park the car; first follow trail sign 324 and then 307 (total travel time: 4 hours).

Starting from the Agostini Refuge, you will stay overnight at this refuge for two nights (one on the approach and the other at the end of stage 1). Access from San Lorenzo in Banale, parking in Baesa: follow trail sign 325 (total travel time: 4 hours). Possibility of using the taxi-jeep service from the town of San Lorenzo or from Baesa to the Cacciatore refuge; from here follow trail sign 325 (travel time: 25 minutes by jeep and 1.30 hours of walking); for details on taxi-jeep transport: www.visitacomano.it Recommended period: from July to September

Stage 1: Cima d'Ambiéz (3,102 m): climb along the Via Normale from the south

Climb exposure: S

Descent exposure: N

Ascent level difference: from the Agostini refuge to the Cima d'Ambiéz 692 m; from the XII Apostoli refuge to the Cima d'Ambiéz 1045 m

Climb time of Via Normale from the south: 2-3 hours

Descent time of Via Normale from the north: 1.30-2 hours

Total stage: 7-9 hours (from the XII Apostoli refuge with return to the Agostini refuge: 9.30-11.30 hours)

Support points: Agostini refuge, XII Apostoli refuge

Type of route: rock

Difficulty: climb AD, max III; descent III

Stage no. 2: Cima Tosa (3,136 m): climb along the Via Migotti from the south; Crozzòn di Brenta (3,135 m): climb and descent along the Cresta Sud (South Crest)

Cima Tosa:

Climb exposure: S

Descent exposure: E-SE

Ascent level difference : from the Agostini refuge to Cima Tosa 726 m

Descent level difference: from Cima Tosa to the Tosa Pedrotti refuge 645 m

Climb time for Via Migotti from Bocca d'Ambiéz: 2-2.30 hours

Descent time for the Via Normale from east-south-east to the Brentari path: 1.30-2 hours

Total stage: 6-8 hours

Support points: Agostini refuge, Tosa Pedrotti refuge

Type of route: rock uphill - track, rocks and passages on rock downhill

Difficulty: PD, II+

Crozzon di Brenta variant:

Exposure: various

Ascent and descent level difference: 250 m

Variant time: 4-6 hours

Total stage: 10-14 hours

Support points: Agostini refuge, Tosa Pedrotti refuge, E. Castiglioni bivouac

Difficulty: AD, III

Stage no. 3: Campanile Alto (2,937 m): climb and descent along the North/North-East Via Normale (Normal Route); Torre di Brenta (3,014 m): climb from the south-east and north sides

Campanile Alto:

Climb and descent exposure: N-NE

Ascent level difference: from the Tosa Pedrotti refuge to Campanile Alto 446 m

Descent level difference: from Campanile Alto to the Alimonta refuge 357 m

Climb and descent time of Via Normale starting from the via delle Bocchette Centrali: 3-4 hours

Total time Campanile Alto: 5-7 hours

Total time Campanile Alto and Torre di Brenta: 10-12 hours

Support points: Tosa Pedrotti refuge, Alimonta refuge

Type of route: rockDifficulty: AD-, III

Torre di Brenta:

Exposure: various

Ascent level difference: from the Tosa Pedrotti refuge to Torre di Brenta 523 m

Descent level difference: from Torre di Brenta to the Alimonta refuge 434 m

Climb and descent time of Via Normale starting from the via delle Bocchette Centrali: 4-6 hours

Total time Torre di Brenta: 6-8 hours

Total time Campanile Alto and Torre di Brenta: 10-12 hours

Support points: Tosa Pedrotti refuge and Alimonta refuge

Type of route: track and rocks

Difficulty: AD-, III+

Stage no. 4: Cima Brenta (3,151 m): climb along the Via Normale from the south

Climb exposure: SW-S

Descent exposure: N-E

Ascent level difference: from the Alimonta refuge to Cima Brenta 250 m; from the Brentei refuge to Cima Brenta 970 m

Climb time of Via Normale from the south: 3-4 hours

Descent time of Via Normale from the north: 1.30-2 hours

Total stage: 7-9 hours

Support points: Brentei refuge, Alimonta refuge, Tuckett e Sella refuge

Type of route: track and rocks, passages on rock

Difficulty: climb PD+, III; descent III+

Stage no. 5: Cima Falkner (2,999 m): climb and descent along the Via Normale South-South East

Climb and descent exposure: S/SE

Ascent level difference: from the Tuckett e Sella refuge and Cima Falkner 727 m

Descent level difference: from Cima Falkner to the Grosè G. Graffer refuge 738 m

Climb and descent time of via Normale from the start of the Benini path: 1 hour

Total time Cima Falkner: 5-6 hours

Total time Cima Falkner and Cima Grostè: 8-9 hours

Support points: Tuckett e Sella refuge, Stoppani refuge, Grostè G. Graffer refuge

Type of route: track and rocks

Difficulty: F, I

Stage no. 6: Cima Pietra Grande (2,936 m) and Cima Vagliana (2,864 m): crossing along the crest from South to North (cresta dell'Oreste)

Crossing exposure: mainly SE

Ascent level difference: from the G. Graffer refuge to the Cima Pietra Grande 676 m

Descent level difference: from Cima Pietra Grande to the G. Graffer refuge 676 m

Crossing time: 5-6 hours

Total time: 8-9 hours

Support points: Stoppani refuge and G. Graffer refuge

Type of route: track and rocks

Difficulty: PD+ III